Mainland Moments: food for thought

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As locals and expatriates alike demonstrate increasingly discerning palates for organics foods in China, Shanghai-based Karen Tye looks at the options.

Everyone is familiar with the age-old adage that “you are what you eat”.
So, for those of us who live in China, what are we eating exactly? There isn’t an answer to the question, I’m afraid.
Really, who could forget the melamine-laced powdered milk and diary products scandal in 2008 that resulted in the death of at least six babies? More recently, China’s food safety scares include a heart palpitation-inducing additive found in pork engineered to be lean, rice noodles made with rotten grains and carcinogenic additives, and exploding watermelons as a result of being pumped with growth chemicals.
It is not just us expats who often rant about this topic to each other. Chinese consumers themselves are highly concerned, some even enraged, and while the government has ramped up supervision, China still has a way to go in terms of food safety.
“Increasing interest and concern about clean, fresh and safe foods have pushed many consumers to go organic,” says Australian Kimberly Ashton, a private health and nutrition consultant, who is based in Shanghai.
“Traditionally, our main customers have been expatriate families, but the trend has shifted to include middle-income local people,” says Jane Tsao, public relations and events director at BIOfarm, an organic farm located in Shanghai.
As such, there has been an increase in the availability of the types of organic food, variety and brands (both domestic and international) in China, with a priority on fresh fruits and vegetables, according to Ashton.
These days, it is certainly hard to miss the organic stickers that are tacked to the individually and excessively plastic-wrapped cucumber or onion that are sold at exorbitant prices in local and foreigner-friendly Shanghai supermarkets.
Before shelling out at least twice the amount for the organic option, many discerning expats have thought to themselves before: What is the definition of organic in China?
“Is it hard to know which types of stickers on the plastic wrap to trust, such as pollution-free, green or organic food? Absolutely, but I believe everything is relative. I would still prefer to eat something cleaner and less risky or harmful than not,” Ashton says.
The blurry definition arises because China has a number of organics certifiers with varying standards and only one organization which is recognized by global organics certifier, International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements – the Organic Food Development Center (OFDC).
“While it is hard for farms and products to attain certification, monitoring is where the issue lies.
Who is checking the farms to make sure they are abiding by the organic codes? My answer is to go to the farms, visit the source and see for yourself how your food is grown before deciding which farm to purchase from or where to get your groceries. Most of the organic vegetables available here are grown in China, and if not nearby or outside Shanghai, then up north in Shandong,” Ashton says.
Located in Pudong, it is easy for Shanghaiers to pop along to BIOfarm, which organizes regular farm tours and vegetable and fruit pickings among other community events with the aim of educating consumers about healthier eating options and lifestyles, according to Tsao. Like many organic farms that are sprouting in Shanghai, BIOfarm offers organic baskets containing seasonal pesticide and chemical-free vegetables and fruits that can be home-delivered on a weekly basis.
“BIOfarm’s customer loyalty is based on the fact that the farm is OFDC-certified, we have a professional and honest organic farming history, and our produce is yummy!” says Tsao.
Ashton also agrees that there is a difference in taste between organic and non-organic products.

“For me, apples from the local fruit stores don’t have a strong apple flavour anymore. For the past two years, I’ve also only bought organic watermelon and strawberries when in season because they have such rich and strong real flavours. Organic fruits and vegetables don’t just look good on the outside, there is a noticeable, better, natural flavour,” she says.

Hmm, better tasting and better for your health. I hope this article has given you some food for thought. 
 
Kimberley Ashton’s tips and advice regarding organic foods
 
  • Aside from tasting better, organic vegetables and fruits are a safer and cleaner option because they contain fewer toxins, pesticides and chemical residues. Less of these on your food mean less in your body!
  • Eating organic food is one way to avoid genetically modified (GM) foods. The jury is still out on the effects of eating GM foods, but healthy living and wholesome eating often stresses less GM food intake.
  • The “Dirty Dozen” is a list of the top fruits and vegetables that we should be eating organic forms of if we can. This is because the nature of the fruit or vegetable is such that chemical or pesticide residue is absorbed to a greater extent and thus more dangerous for us to eat. The Dirty Dozen includes peaches, apples, capsicum, cauliflowers, celery, nectarines, strawberries and cherries, kale, lettuce, grapes, carrots and pears. We can think of it this way, the aforementioned aren’t as protected as say a kiwi fruit or mango for which we’d peel the skin off before consuming.
  • Always wash your organic fruit and vegetables with filtered water like you would other vegetables and produce.
  • Some of the supermarkets like City Super, Parkson and Park’n Shop carry organic farm vegetables such as from BIOfarm and Shanghai Organics.
  • Some restaurants including Melange Oasis Cafe and five-star hotels in Shanghai will serve organic vegetables, salads and herbs, but you need to know where to go.

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